Sundance Film Festival - 2006 - Part B

For the first time in the history of the festival, the same film won the jury and audience awards in the dramatic category and in the documentary category. Here are four of the winning films I was able to see on the last day of the festival:


God Grew Tired of Us - ****
Winner of Grand Jury Prize: Documentary and Audience Award: Documentary
Engaging documentary that follows three charismatic young men from the "lost boys" of Sudan as they first settle in America having escaped civil war by marching thousands of miles across the desert to a refugee camp in Kenya.
Directed by Christopher Quinn

Quinceanera - ****
Winner of Grand Jury Prize: Dramatic and Audience Award: Dramatic
Centered around Magdelena's 15th birthday in the Echo Park neighborhood of Los Angeles, this film tenderly explores a family facing pregnancy, gay and urban gentrification issues providing realistic rays of hope in a changing world.
Directed and written by Wash Westmoreland and Richard Glatzer

A Guide to Recognizing Your Saints - ***
Winner of Dramatic Directing Award and Special Jury Prize (Dramatic) Best Ensemble Performance
A look back at life in the tough neighborhood of Astoria, Queens back in the mid-eighties through the eyes of the main character Dito who got out.
Directed and written by Dito Montiel
Starring Robert Downey, Jr, Rosario Dawson and Dianne Wiest

Iraq in Fragments - ***
Winner of Documentary Directing Award, Excellence in Cinematography Award, and Documentary Film Editing Award
This film explores varying points of view at a personal level inside Iraq by reaching into three separate enclaves and exploring the tensions and vulnerabilities.
Directed by James Longley

Sundance Film Festival - 2006 - Part A

The mountain snows have begun to fall in earnest tonight (Saturday) as the awards for this year's Sundance Film Festival are about to be announced. In my 3rd annual visit to this festival in Park City, Utah, I have to say that the caliber of film continues to rise. I have really enjoyed every movie I've seen so far, different as they are, one from the other. Using a four star rating system, I particularly encourage you to see the 4 star films listed below when the opportunity arises. And remember, you can watch all of the 47 short films in the comfort of your home on www.sundance.org.

American Blackout - ****
Winner of Special Jury Prize (Documentary) Award
A newly revealing documentary that probes into the fundamental right to vote in America and illuminates disturbing actions that plagued both the 2000 and 2004 elections. Everyone should see this movie.
Directed by Ian Inaba
Distribution: Check out http://americanblackout.gnn.tv for updates on distribution plans.

Little Miss Sunshine - ****
Laugh-out-loud funny story about a dysfunctional family as they travel to a beauty pageant for their 7 year old daughter Olive.
Directed by Jonathan Dayton, Valerie Faris
Starring Greg Kinnear, Steve Carell, Alan Arkin
Distribution: Fox Searchlight (paid $10.5 million breaking Sundance record)

Right At Your Door - ****
Tense and thoughtful drama centering around a couple living in Los Angeles as they struggle through the hours immediately following the detonation of multiple dirty bombs that engulf the city. Emotional storytelling that captures the isolation, fear and panic of the situation at an elemental level.
Directed by Chris Gorak (debut)
Starring Mary McCormack, Rory Cochrane
Distribution: Lions Gate (paid nearly $3 million)

The Secret Life of Words - ****
A must see movie that is intensely revealing of recent history in the Balkins through a wrenchingly cathartic love story.
Directed and written by Isabel Coixet
Starring Sarah Polley, Tim Robbins and Julie Christie
Distribution: Focus Features

Thank You For Smoking - ****
Crisp, hilarious film based on the novel by Christopher Buckley. The ensemble cast ranging from Robert Duvall and Sam Elliott to Aaron Eckhart and Maria Bello executes the smart script written (and directed) by Jason Reitman to simultaneously make you laugh and think.
Distribution: Fox Searchlight (release date is March 17, 2006)

Flannel Pajamas - ***
Honest and truthful romantic comedy.
Directed and written by Jeff Lipsky
Starring Julianne Nicholson, Justin Kirk
Distribution: Washington Square Films

Stay - ***
Perceptive romantic comedy that adeptly explores honesty, family, forgiveness and courage.
Directed and written by Bob Goldthwait
Starring Melinda Page Hamilton (from 'Desperate Housewives')
Distribution: Roadside and Goldwyn (paid $600k)

Galapagos Islands - Installment #7 - Jan 15, 2006

Additional wildlife pictures:

Blue Footed Booby

Male Great Frigate Bird

Sea Turtles Mating

Yellow Warbler taking a bath

Lava Cactus

Great Blue Heron sunning itself

On Sunday, we departed from the Galapagos flying on Tame through Guayaquil to Quito.

Quito at dusk

It was an all-day excursion, arriving in Quito with just enough time to walk through the Old Town area and visit a couple of the churches before things closed for the night. As the fog set in, little did we know how that would affect us the next morning. We got up at 5:30 am only to find out that our flight to Miami had been delayed for four hours due to the weather. After 3 1/2 hours on line at the airport and more waiting, we finally took off after 2 pm. As a result, I missed my connection in Miami and had to stay overnight, arising at 4:30 am to get to the airport for yet another delayed flight. I finally made it back to California after traveling for 2 1/2 days. But the Galapagos Islands were well worth it!

Galapagos Islands - Installment #6 - Jan 14, 2006

Our last full day was spent at Espanola (Hood) Island, the southeastern-most and oldest island in the archipelago. After a leisurely breakfast at 8 am, we departed to snorkel around Tortuga island just off the coast. The water was crystal clear, the currents were shifting but not too strong as we circled the small island counterclockwise, and the fish were abundant. From there, we were shuttled by zodiacs directly to Gardner Beach on Espanola where we had leisure time to swim, walk the beach with the sea lions or just relax. The pure white sand was cool to the touch as we walked along and the sea lions provided endless entertainment.

Nazca Booby

Oystercatcher

Waved Albatross

Juvenile Waved Albatross

Waved Albatross trying to take off

After lunch back on the ship, we headed out for our last hike at Punta Suarez on the other side of the island. The trail was rocky and uneven throughout but the effort was worth it. In addition to the sea lions, marine iguanas and oystercatchers, we were able to see seven waved albatross including two juveniles. Three of them were in flight. We were lucky to see them as this is the time of the year when they depart at the end of their nesting cycle to spend the next three months at sea before returning to find their mates again in late March.

Nazca booby with chick and egg

Nazca booby with chick

Hawk in flight

Nazca (masked) boobies were everywhere, many with chicks and eggs hidden underneath their plumage. Every nazca booby lays two eggs but only one ever survives with sibling murder playing a role with this species. Given all the young chicks about, there was bound to be a hawk or two lurking about. Yet another afternoon filled with an abundance of wildlife everywhere we turned.

Back on the ship, we toasted our farewell with the crew over cocktails and dinner.

Galapagos Islands - Installment #5 - Jan 13, 2006

Post Office Barrel on Floreana Island

The early risers got up this morning to take a quick trip in to Floreana Island at 6:30 am to visit Post Office Bay. Dating back to the whaling days, one can leave a postcard (no stamp necessary) and as future visitors arrive, they take any postcards addressed to people in their town to hand deliver when they get back home. We took stacks of postcards and read the towns out loud - quite a few postcards were taken by people in our group for delivery. No California addresses were there so I couldn't help out. After a quick zodiac ride around to look for penguins, we returned to the ship for breakfast.

After breakfast, we went out snorkeling. For the first time this week, the conditions were beautiful - the waters were clear and the fish were abundant. I saw a white-tipped shark, a sting ray, tons of angel fish, a couple of star fish and a sea lion swimming amongst us. Spectacular. We also went out on a zodiac ride to look for the endangered Floreana mockingbird amongst the cacti (we found quite a few of them).

Flamingos

Juvenile Flamingo sleeping

After lunch, we had a choice of snorkeling again or kayaking. I decided to kayak and for the first time, was in a single kayak. What a fantastic afternoon paddling along the coastline and into the nooks and crannys along the way. We saw quite a few sea turtles and sea lions. I had one sea lion riding along with me for quite a while, spinning and jumping and wanting to play. What a wonderful experience! Following kayaking, we managed to squeeze in a quick walk on the beach near where the ship was anchored to view the Galapagos flamingos reflected in the shallow pool in which they were snacking as the sun began to set. A full day with a variety of
adventures that kept getting better and better.

Another beautiful sunset

Back on the ship, we had dinner outside on the sundeck as the full moon rose and a light breeze blew (still warm enough to be in short sleeves but very comfortable)...a wonderful way to end the day.

Galapagos Islands - Installment #4 - Jan 12, 2006

Caldera at Sierra Negra on Isabela Island

Still smouldering vent where volcano erupted back in October 2005


Pele's Hair

Today was a hiking day - up to the volcano Sierra Negra on Isabela Island that just erupted back in October. Those of us who self-designated as "fast and further" hikers departed first at 7:45 am to arrive on the dock at the southern end of the island where we took taxis up towards the volcano to begin the hike. There were about 15 of us that hiked the seven miles round trip up through the mist and fog to the rim of the caldera - one of the five largest calderas in the world measuring 6 miles by 4 miles. At the rim, we hiked a bit towards the area where the eruptions had taken place. The fumaroles were still emitting gases and the landscape was filled with cooled lava from the eruption. The spew was fine rock formations, light as a feather. We also saw Pele's hair, a glass-like formation as fine as hair that appears soon after volcanic eruptions but doesn't last too long and eventually is blown away by the wind. Seeing it on the rim of the caldera was yet another sign of the newness of the current situation at the volcano.

Giant Tortoise at Charles Darwin Research Station on Isabela Island

Rescued tortoises whose shells were damaged from the volcanic eruptions

The hike itself was very dry and dusty so we came back to the ship to clean up for lunch and then returned to the island in the afternoon to visit the Darwin Research Station where they are successfully raising giant tortoises from Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul in captivity to then reintroduce them into the wild to keep the population thriving. These tortoises are amazing creatures that are reputed to live up to 150 years.

A beautiful walk back to town, a quick swim in the ocean and a beer on the beach, and it was time to head back to the ship for the night.

Galapagos Islands - Installment #3 - Jan 11, 2006

Dolphins at sunrise

This morning, we sailed to Isabela Island, the largest island in the Galapagos archipelago. I got up at 6:15 am with others to search for dolphins and whales while we were sailing. First thing, we saw a school of dolphins - probably at least 100 of them jumping and swimming along. We followed them for a while and then spotted a sperm whale off in the distance. With my binoculars, I was lucky to see it as it made its dive down deep.

We crossed the equator twice today - first in the middle of the night and second in the morning, so those of us who had never crossed the equator before by ship crowded onto the bridge to watch the navigation equipment display 0 degrees. We each got a certificate to evidence this milestone achievement.

Galapagos Penguins

Once we anchored, we went out in the zodiacs to explore the coastline where we found a few penguins along with the sea lions, iguanas, blue footed boobies, and our first sightings of the flightless cormorant. Out in the open sea, we came upon some sea turtles mating, an intense and exhausting process for the female. And we saw the fin of a mola mola popping out of the water - a shark-like fin connected to a large ray/mollusk-shaped body below the water. Franklin, one of four naturalists on the trip, jumped in the water to try to capture it on camera since the water was so murky that we could barely see anything on the surface. Unfortunately, it was the same underwater.

Marine Iguanas on Fernandina Island

Flightless Cormorant

Sally Lightfoot Crab

In the afternoon, we disembarked on Fernandina Island, a volcanic island that is one of the most active in the world. Our hike took us over black aa and pahoehoe lava with the beginnings of young vegetation starting to take hold - a very hot hike as the lava absorbs the sun with no cover until the clouds appear overhead.

For the first time, I could feel the impact of being on the ship as the ground on the island felt like it was rocking. I've had no problem with the motion of the ship on this trip - in fact, it's been lulling many of us to sleep more than desired!

We saw numerous marine iguanas, flightless cormorants, herons, lava lizards, turtles, sea lions and penguins. An abundance of wildlife right on the coastline of this everchanging island. Tomorrow, we're hiking up to the volcano that just erupted back in October on Isabela Island - what a treat!

Galapagos Islands - Installment #2 - Jan 10, 2006

Giant tortoise - "El Chato" area in highlands of Santa Cruz Island

Entering the lava tunnel

After a night of rougher seas, the 6 am wake-up call came early. But, we motivated ourselves to get moving since we were off to see the giant tortoises. The zodiacs transported us to the dock at Academy Bay on Santa Cruz Island where we boarded buses to head to the "El Chato" area in the highlands, a tortoise preserve that is part of the Galapagos National Park. Here, we hiked 2 miles to observe the tortoises in their natural setting. They are quite large animals with spectacular shells. While we saw quite a few tortoises, they were all still as we walked by. After that, we hiked through a lava tube (an underground cave-like tunnel where lava flowed at one point in time) about 1/4 mile to get to breakfast.

Giant tortoise heading off the road

Our group (about 1/4 of the passengers) arrived first so we had a nice leisurely meal before departing as the last group was arriving. As we headed back toward town, we came upon a tortoise ambling down the road. We stopped and got out for pictures and watched it for a while as it watched us and then turned off the road and into the brush. Spectacular.

"Lonesome George" at C. Darwin Research Station

Land Iguana - North Seymour

Juvenile Magnificent Frigate

Sea Lion Pup

Back in Puerto Ayora (population of ~15,000), several of us headed up to the Darwin Research Station to see "Lonesome George" (a giant tortoise) as well as the baby tortoises being bred, and some endangered land iguanas. A much more worthwhile excursion than shopping in town for two hours. After a leisurely afternoon on the boat while it sailed north to North Seymour, we dropped anchor and disembarked to hike on a difficult loop trail (very rocky). The area is very arid as it gets little rain so vegetation is sparse and low to the ground. This is mating season for the frigate birds so we watched as the males puff out their red chests into a balloon-like form to try to attract the females. We cam upon several land iguanas (different than marine iguanas and much more endangered) and watched tons of sea lions at various ages from brand new pup to a bit older climbing the rocks at the shore, playing or just lying around. An amazing variety of wildlife in such a condensed space, and with no fear of humans. Truly remarkable.

Galapagos Islands - Installment #1 - Jan 8-9, 2006

The Galapagos Islands are in a remote location 600 miles west of Ecuador as evidenced by the 11 1/2 hours of airplane travel plus another 7+ hours of wait time at the airports that I endured to get here. And I had it relatively easy (compared to others) flying from SFO to Miami to Guayaquil on Saturday, January 7th and Guayaquil to Baltra on Sunday morning. Our plane landed on a single airstrip on a desert-like island with virtually no visible life. We could see our ship as we came in for a landing and rather quickly made our way by bus and boat to embark on the M.S. Islander with Lindblad Expeditions.

Sting Ray

Sunset - Santa Cruz Island

A warm welcome awaited us with no rest for the weary. The ship is full with 45 passengers from near (Miami) and far (S. Africa) but mostly from the U.S. After an orientation and safety drill, we began our first excursion piling into four zodiacs (like big inflatable rafts with an outboard motor in the back) and exploring around the island in amongst the mangroves. The late afternoon light was stunning as we watched a great blue heron sunning itself on a rock and a large turtle swimming next to the boat. This was our first taste of what is to come this week and it was a feast for the eyes and the cameras - we watched bright red and blue crabs scurry along the black shoreline lava rocks and around the lounging marine iguanas. Blue footed boobies (they have ice blue webbed feet - very distinctive!) and brown pelicans posed amongst the desert vegetation. Cactus finches fluttered around the dormant cacti (the rainy season is about to begin so the limited vegetation is brown and dormant as it awaits the initial rains). And sharks swam along with the boats for much of the time. An amazing variety of wildlife to see in a confined area and in such a short period of time. What a fabulous introduction to this unique area of the world.

View of Pinnacle Rock from the top of Bartolome

Back on the ship, we had a tasty dinner and then headed to bed. An early night to get ready for an early morning. At six a.m. Monday, the wake up call came so those interested could disembark and hike up Bartolome. We had sailed overnight to reach this new location. The area looked like Mars with remnants of volcanic activity - cinder cones, lava rocks, lava tubes - all in the reddish brown color. The National Park Service built a boardwalk-like structure to allow hikers to climb to the top without eroding the delicate landscape. Initial bits of vegetation are starting to take hold in this porous surface. It is an area reminiscent of Hawaii but with no introduction of foreign plants or seed by man, it is a relatively pure view of the geologic process at work.

Ghost Crab

Marine Iguana

After a quick breakfast back on the ship and an introduction to snorkeling, we were back out in the zodiacs heading to the beach for another hike and then some snorkeling. The hike introduced us to oyster catchers (black birds with long red beaks), ghost crabs (almost see-thru grey color with intricate design work overlaid) that darted in and out of their holes in the sand, lazy sea lions and a penguin swimming in the surf. The snorkeling conditions were less than ideal with pretty murky water though we managed to see a few colorful fish here and there. After lunch, we had another opportunity to snorkel and hike. This time the snorkeling conditions were much better so we saw a variety of fish as well as a friendly sea lion that came by for a visit. Our hike led out along the coast of Santiago Island at low tide where we saw multitudes of marine iguanas, yellow warblers, sea lions and finally, reaching the end point, we came upon a group of fur seals. With the sun setting in the distance, it was quite a memorable walk.

Another early evening to prepare for a six a.m. wake up call to see the tortoises.