Port Lockroy - January 5, 2011

Leopard Seal
Gentoo Penguin

Penguin Highways

This morning we arrived at Port Lockroy, a former British station and now a Heritage museum. We shuttled in shifts to the island with the museum and to another nearby island with gentoo penguin colonies. Again, the skies are overcast and foggy but the air is still with a crispness in the air. This afternoon we head to one more spot for an afternoon of activities (still a mystery) and then after dinner tonight, we start back through the Drake Passage. Can't believe how quickly time has passed by....

Prospect Point - January 4, 2011

As we set back on a northerly path, we came to Prospect Point in the morning. Another opportunity to kayak amongst the Fish Islands for an hour and then ride the zodiac to land on the continent of Antarctica. We hiked up the hill in the snow and as we headed down, the clouds parted and the sun came out. This is the first day we've really seen blue sky and sun. The colors are so dramatic compared to the shades of gray we've been seeing! After a quick lunch, we found our ship had pushed up onto an ice shelf so we could walk off the gangplank onto the ice to take pictures of the boat...spectacular. Just finished listening to Peter Hillary's second presentation and am heading to the spa before dinner! Another great day.

Pourquois Pas Island - January 3 , 2011

When we woke up, we were south of the Antarctic Circle. We sailed through the morning, through ice and fog and ended up at Pourquois Pas Island were we moored in a cove for the afternoon. With glacier- lined mountains all around, we set out in kayaks around the bay. The kayaks are inflatable and very steady. It was quite a well-orchestrated operation to get everyone who wanted to kayak in and out efficiently. I drove the kayak with another guest in front and we went far, from one end of the bay to the other in about an hour. Great exercise. The wind had died down too so it was downright hot paddling around.

Gullet Bay - January 3, 2011

Weddell Seal
Killer Whales

This morning, we crossed over the Antarctic Circle and are continuing to head south. We just passed through Gullet Bay, a narrow inlet filled with sea ice. We are the first ship of the season to make it through. Temperatures hover around freezing and snow storms pop up in a moment's notice. Seals sleeping on ice floes and birds circling overhead are a common occurrence. We're hoping to see more whales today.

Palmer Station - January 2, 2011

Petral eating penguin chick
Adelie penguin with chick

What a stupendous day - we started at Palmer Station, one of three US Antarctica Program stations and the smallest with about 45 living there. It was cold, windy, rainy and snowy and just downright nasty but we toured the facilities, bought t-shirts and pins at the gift shop and spent time speaking with the researchers there. Incredible work being done. From there, we took zodiacs to Torgersen Island to see the colonies of Adelie penguins. Their populations have dropped dramatically with the changes in the sea ice while other species are growing. Had the privilege of watching a skua get a penguin chick and eat it, competing with another bird, and watching the other penguins mourn the loss. Quite sad. Global warming is definitely visible here with the changes in the glaciers that can be seen at Palmer Station in a very short period of time.

After a delicious lunch on board and a quick massage in the spa, we were back out in the zodiacs visiting Petermann Island. On the island, we walked amongst Gentoo penguins, the ones with "lipstick" beaks. Lots of chicks being kept warm. While half the group zodiac'd around the bay, we were on the island hiking amongst the penguins. Then we switched. Saw amazing icebergs, some as tall as 20 stories high, others with multiple blow holes. You can really see how the icebergs break apart during the summer and float around in the process.

Tonight, we are heading to the Antarctic Circle - fantastic to be able to cross it. Right now it is 11 pm and still bright daylight. We've had lots of cloud cover on this trip but right now, I can see blue sky peeking out above with tons of icebergs floating nearby....a truly magnificent site!

Deception Island - January 1, 2011

Chinstrap penguin

Happy New Year!!! What a fabulous place to ring in the new year. We were awakened very early this morning with the news that we were entering Deception Island, a volcanic caldera. Upon entering, we moored right up next to the beach. My group disembarked first and had 2 hours to walk around. It is an old whaling station that has long been abandoned. We walked towards one end of the beach for views out over the rim and then the other end to see the abandoned buildings. Unlike yesterday which was warm and comfortable, today was snowing and blowing and biting as the pellets hit your face. Otherwise, we are bundled up quite well to stay warm while outside. There were quite a few penguins milling around on the beach - chinstraps - so I got some great pictures and video. This is also the area where there are warm springs so some people did the polar plunge....not me! This afternoon we are sailing to the South Shetland Islands and hearing a talk by Peter Hillary along the way.